What to Order at Gaonnuri, One of NYC’s Best Korean Tasting Menus
Manhattan isn’t short on restaurants with a view. But many of them trade on that view; skimping on food, service, or both, hoping the sunset over the Hudson or the Empire State Building reflection buys your forgiveness, all at a premium price. Gaonnuri doesn’t need forgiveness. It earns your attention on every level.
Perched on the 39th floor of a Broadway high-rise in New York City’s Koreatown, Gaonnuri is giving diners sweeping views that arc from west to east and delivering delightful Korean dishes from standard KBBQ to unique tasting menus.
From our table, we could see the golden-hour shimmer on the Hudson, the spires near Bryant Park pierced into the evening sky, and the lights of Midtown slowly stood out. But for all the drama outside the windows, the energy inside was calm, composed, and distinctly confident.
Gaonnuri isn’t a showy restaurant. The design is understated with sleek tables, soft lighting, dark finishes. It’s the kind of space that sets the tone without trying to steal the spotlight. You come here to dine, not to pose. And you leave remembering the meal, not the ceiling fixtures. I had used the word clinical when I was there, but it’s not a fair or apt description. Maybe corporate is better? Serious? In any case, you’re not there for the decor, you’re there to eat and gaze out at the city.
We came for the tasting course menu which consisted of a seven-course progression that promised seasonal ingredients and traditional Korean flavors, reimagined for a more elevated setting. At $145 per person, it’s not casual, but it’s far from the city’s most expensive tasting menu (side note: since opening in 2012, the tasting menu price has increased by 50%). What it does offer, though, is a well-paced, thoughtful experience that respects both presentation and tradition. While the presentations are a much more modern take on Korean fare, save for the crowd-pleasing bibimbap, the flavors themselves are very much in line with bold Korean flavor profiles of fermented pastes, contrasts of sweetness and acidity, and the clean crunch of fresh vegetable, and pickled sides.
After an amuse bouche consisting of tofu, the opening course arrived: a Baby Octopus Salad which was actually the one miss of the evening. The flavors were bright (soy vinaigrette, fresh vegetables) but the dish didn’t deliver on the “octopus” part of its name. It felt more like a vegetable-forward starter with a garnish of seafood rather than the other way around.
Next came the Yellowfin Tartare and Caviar, and here the kitchen found its footing. Served over a dish that billowed with dry ice fog, the presentation added a dose of theater without feeling forced. The tartare itself was clean and elegant, with thin slices of cucumber, sweet Korean pear, and a touch of Kaluga caviar providing salinity and depth. It was one of those dishes where everything was in balance; the richness of the fish, the snap of the vegetables, the coolness of the misty presentation that made the bite feel like it existed just for that moment.
The Black Cod with White Kimchi was a standout. Lightly marinated in doenjang (fermented soybean paste), the cod arrived silky and just barely cooked through, a balance of umami and delicacy. What made the dish sing, though, was the white kimchi. Unlike its red counterpart, this version brought acidity without heat, brightness without funk (I mean that in a nice way because red kimchi is a top 5 food for me). It felt like a palate cleanser in the best way, cooling and gentle… something you could eat on a summer evening and not feel weighed down.
By the time the BBQ Duo Set arrived, the room was fully aglow and the city below had turned to lights and shadows. At most of the city’s Korean restaurants, the grill takes over the table, all sound and smoke. Here, it’s more discreet. The cuts, 21-day dry-aged ribeye and USDA prime marinated galbi, were seared to order and served in pristine cubes and slices. Both were exceptional. The ribeye carried that gentle funk of age and a soft mineral depth, while the galbi was deeply marinated, sweet, charred, and tender without being overly sugary. It was the kind of meat course that makes you slow down and savor every bite. Both melted in my mouth. The menu offered a premium option involving wagyu, but it didn’t feel necessary.
What followed was a gentle reset: a Hot Stone Pot Bibimbap featuring Korean aster leaf and seasonal vegetables. The stone bowl did its job, crispening the rice just enough around the edges, but the flavors were more refined than rustic. This wasn’t a street-style bibimbap; it was a composed dish meant to transition you toward the finish. And it worked.
Dessert was a trio of traditional-inspired sweets: matcha chiffon cake, a red bean and chestnut jelly (yang-gaeng), and a small sobacha (roasted barley tea) ice cream pop dipped in chocolate. It was perfectly portioned; just enough to end the meal without overpowering it. To top things off, the kitchen sent out a bonus treat to celebrate our anniversary. A kind gesture that left a lasting impression.
The service throughout was crisp and unobtrusive. Water glasses were quietly replenished, courses arrived at a natural rhythm, and the staff maintained a calm attentiveness without the overly rehearsed polish you sometimes get at high-end spots. The explanations of each dish did feel a bit rushed, and the servers seemed to disappear too quickly for me to ask them to repeat themselves. Otherwise, everything ran like a well oiled machine.
And that sums up Gaonnuri’s whole approach. There’s nothing flashy about this place, aside from the view. The food isn’t reinventing Korean cuisine, but the restaurant leans into its strengths; deep marinades, clean seafood, layered textures, all while elevating the plating and service just enough to feel occasion-worthy.
You could come here for the BBQ alone, the tasting menu like we did, or splurge of an omakase ($195 with seven kinds of meat and more). You could come here for the skyline. But what makes Gaonnuri special is how seamlessly the food and the view come together. The view hooks you; the meal earns your return.
Gaonnuri
1250 Broadway, 39th Floor, New York, NY 10001 (Entrance on 32nd Street)
(212) 971-9045 | gaonnurinyc.com
Tasting Menu: $145 per person (Wagyu upgrade +$95)
Full bar; reservations strongly recommended
